When Wei Guangyao presents plates of rock sugar, mugwort and Sichuan peppercorn before a group of guests, he is not planning to deliver a dish, but to cook up a pool of ink.

"Take rock sugar for example, it can raise the ink's brightness while boosting the integration of other ingredients," says the man in his 40s.

In addition to those pantry staples, multiple traditional Chinese medicines, ranging from borneol and musk, are part of the classified recipe behind Yidege, an ink that has gained increasing popularity among calligraphy and painting enthusiasts over the past 159 years.

They act as natural preservatives for the ink while offering certain therapeutical effects.

"Smell it, this cooling scent comes from the borneol, which explains why Yidege's ink not only has a rich fragrance but also helps invigorate the mind. The more you write with it, the more refreshed you feel," says Wei, who has been the fourth-generation inheritor of the ink craftsmanship that was named a national intangible cultural heritage in 2014.

He stresses that high-quality ink is characterized by a glossy sheen, balanced density, smooth writing, a strong fragrance, quick drying, suitability for mounting, water resistance, and unfading color.

The use of ink in China has been documented by ancient historians since the period before the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) when ink pills made from lacquer and pine soots emerged. They then evolved into ink sticks that came into widespread use in calligraphy and painting.

Yet, proper use of those ink sticks required grinding on an inkstone, a practice that has been carried on for thousands of years, until Xie Songdai from the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) arrived on the scene.

Xie felt the inconvenience of grinding ink while taking the imperial exam, so he began exploring ways to produce ready-to-use ink liquid.

After numerous trials and errors in Beijing, he finally developed ink liquid in 1865, which could rival traditional ink sticks for effectiveness. This invention changed the age-old practice of grinding ink sticks before writing. Xie then promoted it at imperial examination venues, where it was warmly received by the test takers. This success led him to establish Yidege.

Since then, the ink liquid has stood the test of time and become an indispensable part of the desks of traditional Chinese calligraphers and painters.

Wei has worked his way up to be the fourth generation of Yidege inheritors after he joined the time-honored brand more than two decades ago.

"We have consistently adhered to traditional methods and strict quality standards, which means that many steps cannot be replaced by machines to this day," says Wei.

Tasks such as ingredient mixing, glue and ink paste preparation must be taught by master craftsmen through hands-on instructions.

"It takes years of practice, developing a keen sense of touch and sight before one can master the craft and work independently," he says.

The process

The entire ink-making process starts with collecting soot. This involves burning wood or oil and condensing the smoke to collect the resulting carbon powder, known as carbon black, which gives the ink its dark color.

The quality of the soot directly affects the quality of the ink. However, in modern times, due to considerations of cost and environmental impact, most ink manufacturers have replaced natural carbon black with industrial carbon black, which still produces consistent results.

Then, the focus shifted to glue-making. The glue acts as a binding agent. In ancient times, to make ink portable and durable, ink makers initially mixed it with lacquer to form ink balls. However, ink mixed with lacquer hardened over time, becoming so tough that it would often damage the inkstones. Later, people discovered that animal gelatin glue — made from repeatedly boiling pig or cow hides and bones — was a better binder. When mixed with soot, it prevents the ink from hardening over time.

Today, gelatin glue has been mass manufactured by specialized plants by boiling animal bones down to small hard balls, which need to be cooked by ink makers.

It has been a demanding job to grasp the cooking process, especially controlling the fire, which is critical to producing quality ink. This skill can only be passed down through personal instructions by experienced masters.

Even in the modern age, an experienced ink maker has to stand guard over the glue boiler.

"It takes six hours to melt the glue, and the master must keep a close watch on the hot pot, just like cooking porridge. If it melts too much, it will become too watery, and if it doesn't melt enough, it won't blend well with carbon black and other ingredients," Wei says.

The crucial moment is determined based on the glue's smell, color and texture.

Then comes the ingredients mixing, which varies with seasons.

"The portions have to change. For instance, the water content in the glue can be different due to seasonal changes, so the recipe has to be adjusted accordingly," Wei says.

He takes relief that many young people have joined the practice of the ink craft over the years.

It takes pain and responsibility to carry the craft forward since the glue preparation alone would expose one to a high-temperature working environment for hours, Wei explains.

Apart from taking care of ink production, Wei has gone to bookstores and stationery shops to get real-time market feedback.

"We need up-to-date information to carry out innovations while sticking to traditions," Wei says.

Yidege rolled out tailored ink products for school students about seven years ago.

"We cut back on the traditional Chinese medicine input to reduce the smell, while making the ink easier for them to write, such as saving them the trouble of putting in water," Wei says.

Last year, Yidege's ink sales increased by 20 percent over the previous year, which Wei attributed to the rise of traditional culture.

"Many primary schools have opened calligraphy classes," he notes.

In April this year, Yidege rolled out a gift box containing a delicate calligraphy brush, floral fragrance ink, celadon gourd-shaped inkstone, acrylic picture frame and colored Xuan paper, which has drawn the attention of many young consumers.

Joint effort

It is a joint effort with the Yuxun program, which was launched by the Beijing Gongmei Group and focuses on innovative art creations.

"The gift box is simple and elegant, making it more suitable for modern life," says Yang Yujia, an officer with Yuxun.

"Whether on an office desk or anywhere at home, it allows you to write anytime and anywhere," Yang adds.

Wei came to see the cooperation as an innovation that helps expand sales channels and reach new consumer groups.

"Yidege has been committed to both preserving tradition and driving innovation, enhancing our product lines and focusing on developing student stationery products," says Bai Bing, the ink brand's general manager.

From continually launching new student products to promoting calligraphy in schools and organizing intangible cultural heritage learning activities, Yidege has been dedicated to spreading Chinese painting and calligraphy culture, expanding application scenarios and experiential spaces, Bai says.

Last year, Yidege held over 30 learning activities and participated in more than 10 exhibitions, according to him.

"We will continue to focus on the stationery market, striving to offer high-quality, cost-effective, reliable, and safe products to consumers who love traditional Chinese painting and calligraphy, and contribute to the inheritance and development of China's excellent traditional culture," Bai says.