In the Amboseli National Park in southern Kenya, a herd of elephants walks in the dawn light with the highest mountain in Africa, Tanzania's Mount Kilimanjaro, topped with snow and glaciers in the background. BEN CURTIS/AP
In 2021, Renick Odede, a 35-year-old Kenyan who lives in Nairobi, got interested in climbing mountains after watching a documentary about the sport. He started by climbing the Ngong Hills near his home and began to prepare to climb Mount Kenya, the country's highest mountain, and Africa's second highest, which rises to a height of 5,199 meters.
Nobody mentioned the dangers of altitude sickness. Odede was just told that climbing was a case of following the orders of the mountain guides. He remembers feeling on top of the world when he made it to the summit of Mount Kenya in March 2022, where he promised himself that his next challenge would be to climb Tanzania's Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain.
"At the time, I did not know when I would go to Tanzania to make the climb because the trip costs money, and I had to work to raise the funds," said Odede, who works at a bank in Nairobi, Kenya's capital.
He was encouraged by a fellow climber who had hiked Mount Kenya with him, and they decided to use the time before the Kilimanjaro climb to train, research the mountain, and organize the trip.
Over a period of a year, they trained hard, undertaking numerous nature walks while researching different routes up Kilimanjaro in order to decide on the most manageable and most interesting way to reach the summit.
Finally, this May, Odede and his friend were ready to take on the challenge for which they had been preparing.
Visitors can either fly into the Kilimanjaro International Airport which is about 50 kilometers from the peak, or use public transport, like Odede and his colleague did, by taking a shuttle bus from Nairobi to Arusha in Tanzania, before getting on a bus to Kilimanjaro.
"I am fortunate to have a relative from Kenya who relocated to Tanzania and does business near the mountain in the town of Moshi. Because he lives there, he has contacts in the Kilimanjaro tourist business, so he helped us arrange our trip by linking us up with a reputable tour guide company for a negotiated price," Odede said.
At 5,895 meters, Mountain Kilimanjaro is the highest single freestanding mountain in the world, meaning that it is not part of a range. Other than its fame as the highest mountain in Africa, it is known for having a permanent, though shrinking icecap, which is unusual given the mountain's tropical location and warm year round climate.
Every year around 50,000 visitors from around the world come for the climb. The time it takes varies. The ascent can be completed in as little as five days or as many as nine, depending on the route.
According to mountain guides, a typical day's hike is only 4-6 hours at a slow pace. The reason for such gradual progress is to slowly gain altitude so the body can adjust to decreasing oxygen levels. However, the final push to the summit and subsequent descent results in a very long day, which takes between 10-14 hours.
The entrance to the Mount Kilimanjaro National Park, which leads to the Marangu climbing route. The mountain, the highest in Africa, has several routes of varying duration and difficulty. OTIATO OPALI/CHINA DAILY
Popular route
Odede said that the research they did before traveling to Tanzania to climb Kilimanjaro came in handy because it alerted them to the fact that the difficulty of the climb depends on the route chosen. For his ascent, Odede chose both the cheapest and what is considered the easiest route, the Marangu Route, which takes five days, and is popular with tourists.
"We arrived in Kilimanjaro to nice warm weather of around 30 C, but 6 days later when we were at the summit, the temperature up there must have been at least -5 C to -10 C, and there was a small snow storm," Odede said.
He said that the air at the summit contains 50 percent less oxygen than at the start of the trip. On summit night, the climb from the final base camp is just over a kilometer, but the trail zigzags up, so it is a 6-km hike that takes around seven hours. The group climbing with the tour company Odede had booked was 20-strong, with an additional 10 support staff from the company.
"As we climbed the mountain, there were areas and days when the terrain could best be described as rocky, sparse and elephant gray in color as far as the eye could see. This gave a prehistoric feel to the mountain, especially when the mist set in across the vast landscapes with little vegetation," Odede said.
He said the stony ground and uneven surface meant it was very important to keep a sharp eye trained on the path ahead to avoid a fall.
Bernard Chaga, a tour guide on the Marangu Route used by Odede's team during their ascent said that there are seven major routes to the summit. These are the Marangu, Machame, Umbwe, Rongai, Shira, Lemosho, and the Northern Circuit routes.
"It is important to choose the right route according to difficulty level. That is why it is a requirement for anyone climbing Kilimanjaro to be in the company of a guide who is licensed by the Kilimanjaro National Park. Most of the visitors who climb the mountain have a team consisting of a lead guide, assistant guide, cook and porters," Chaga said.
Prices for the climb vary according to the route taken. The most popular 8-day Lemosho Route costs around $3,300 per person.
Chaga said that park fees alone account for the biggest portion of the price, on top of which are fees for the tour guides and staff. He added that it is good to research companies as there are those offering the service from as little as $2300, all the way to luxury companies that can charge as much as $5,000.
The guide runs a souvenir shop at the start of the Marangu Route which also hires out climbing gear to visitors, and said that the best operators should be able to provide professional staff, equipment, food, and service. Visitors should also ensure their guides are medically trained to handle emergencies.
Tourists arrive at Mount Kilimanjaro's Marangu gate located at 1,860 meters to begin preparations for their five-day climb. The mountain rises to a height of 5,895 meters. OTIATO OPALI/CHINA DAILY
Economic uplift
Having grown up near the mountain, Chaga said that one of the most significant benefits Kilimanjaro provides to Tanzania and its citizens is economic uplift. The constant inflow of visitors from international and domestic destinations generates substantial revenues for tour guides and businessmen like him, which is crucial to the local economy.
This revenue is generated around tourist activities linked to the mountain, including park entrance fees, guided tours, accommodation, transportation, and other services. It helps fund local infrastructure projects and community development initiatives, fostering overall economic growth in the region.
"The growth of tourism around Mount Kilimanjaro has led to significant improvements in infrastructure to the benefit of those of us living here," Chaga said.
"We have seen roads, communication networks, healthcare facilities, and other essential services built, driven by the need to cater to tourists. These developments benefit not only visitors but also the local population, improving our quality of life and access to essential services."
For people planning to climb Kilimanjaro, the guide recommends carrying plenty of water since remaining properly hydrated helps defend against altitude sickness. He also advises climbers to bring the right gear because even if they have the best physical training and mental preparation possible, without the right walking boots or warm clothes, the experience can be harrowing.
He advises that at a minimum, visitors bring thermal layers, two pairs of gloves, a hat, a scarf, a down jacket and a heavy-duty sleeping bag.
Odede says that one of the most interesting aspects of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro is the opportunity to make friends from all over the world, as climbers need other people to help them reach the summit, not just to look out for them, but also to keep them motivated during the arduous journey.
"The night we climbed to the summit was one of the hardest things I have ever done, but it was also the most amazing thing I have ever done. That is why you need to be prepared and also be part of a team that helps you maintain the right mindset," Odede said.
"I was so tired on that last day, and was almost falling asleep as I walked, but my teammates and the guides and porters were there to help in case I needed assistance."
