Hu Sheguang, a maverick fashion designer known for his avant-garde designs and sometimes jaw-dropping shows, launched 100 haute couture qipao, or cheongsam, at the CP Center in Beijing on Wednesday during the ongoing 2024 A/W Beijing Fashion Week.

Dozens of models, all in high heels, strutted down the runway, presenting four series of Hu's qipao designs—Flowery Woman, French-style Elegance, Rock 'n' Roll, and Neo-Chinese Style—redefining the century-old Chinese dress.

A symbol of oriental femininity and elegance, qipao is a figure-hugging dress with a standing collar, an asymmetric left-over-right opening, and two-side slits. The pankou-style knot buttons are also an essential part of the dress.

Qipao first emerged in the 1920s as a loose-fitting dress like the one-piece gowns that men wore, popular among young feminists. It was around the 1930s that the dress was tailored to accentuate women's curves, making it a must-have outfit among fashion-savvy women in Shanghai, which was considered the fashion capital of the nation.

While retaining qipao's signature cut that emphasizes and flatters a woman's body, Hu ingeniously combined qipao with Western garments such as trench coats and bomber jackets. He also infused modern aesthetics and techniques into his haute couture qipao collection, epitomized by creative coating, embossed jacquard, and hollow carvings, as well as decorations such as metal accessories, snake strips, and sequins.

Different from traditional qipao dresses that are mostly made of silk, Hu's designs used a variety of fabrics, including cotton, linen, lace, and leather, to make haute couture qipao more affordable, according to the designer.

He also replaced the traditional knot buttons, which require some effort in tying and untying, with the more convenient zippers.

"Chinese qipao are usually custom made to highlight the wearer's individuality. Qipao is also so inclusive that it can be worn for diverse occasions and haute couture qipao enables every woman to be fashionable," Hu said.

A member of the Mongolian ethnic group hailing from North China's Inner Mongolia autonomous region, Hu drew much inspiration from his ethnic heritage in creating this collection.

For example, plenty of Hu's qipao designs feature the high, padded shoulders commonly seen in the traditional Mongolian garment deel and many models also sport the vibrant, exquisite Mongolian headdresses.

The collection's launch event also highlighted jewelry from C-The Art of Chinese Imperial Jewelry, a brand known for embodying Chinese traditional jewelry craftsmanship.