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Open-air markets bolster Beijing's street vending economy
2024-02-15 
Spring Festival decorations such as lanterns and couplets are sold at the Shahe Market on Jan 7. WEI XIAOHAO/CHINA DAILY

Guo Liping, 50, has been regularly visiting the Shahe Market in Beijing's Changping district for a decade. He said he is a big fan of the vibrant open-air market because it helps him unwind and stay passionate about life.

The market is so popular among both Changping's residents and visitors from other districts that shoppers jostle for elbowroom on normal days, and now with the Year of the Dragon here, the crowds are swelling as more vendors have set up shop to sell Spring Festival decorations such as lanterns, couplets and red envelopes, Guo said.

"Shahe Market is the place to be if one wants to get into the festive mood. Look how happy people are when choosing Spring Festival decorations. See how their faces light up when they land a good deal. Simple pleasures don't cost much here," he said, in between bites of his hot sesame bun with sausages.

As delicious smells wafted up from the food stalls on a cold winter morning, Guo, who works in the finance sector, said: "For many people like me, coming to the market is therapeutic, and I am not exaggerating a bit. As soon as I walk into the market, I feel very relaxed. It's totally worth the one-hour drive."

Shoppers browse products at the market. WEI XIAOHAO/CHINA DAILY

The Shahe Market in suburban Beijing covers an area of 120,000 square meters and is among the Chinese capital's largest open-air markets. It attracts thousands of shoppers when it opens every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

The unique selling point of the market is that people find everything they need here — and more, Guo said.

And he is absolutely right.

The market not just offers daily necessities such as fruits and vegetables, street food and antique items, one might also spot vendors selling katydids, which are large, typically green, long-horned nocturnal grasshoppers that are kept as pets by many people.

"Everything is so down-to-earth here, which is in stark contrast to the modern city life in Beijing. It is a fond reminder of my childhood days- the good times I spent with my family at the open-air markets near my native village in Gansu province," Guo said.

Daji, which translates as a "big market or fair", is typically held on specific dates based on the lunar calendar, such as dates ending with five or seven. It is also a common practice to hold daji ahead of or during traditional Chinese holidays such as the Spring Festival holiday. Visiting such fairs is popularly termed as ganji, which literally means "chasing the market".

These markets or fairs evolved from the folk custom of trading in goods, which can be traced back to the Han dynasties (206 BC-AD 220).

Fruits are sold at an open-air market in Nanqijia village in Beijing's Changping district on Jan 11. WEI XIAOHAO/CHINA DAILY

In the olden days, due to a lack of convenient means of transportation and communication, it was challenging for households to meet their needs for daily necessities. As a solution, people made agreements to gather on a particular day at a specific location, where they traded their surplus goods for the items they needed.

In addition to being venues for buying and selling, these markets became occasions for people to socialize and be entertained.

Today, when supermarkets are found in almost every corner of Beijing and online shopping platforms offer same-day grocery delivery services, Guo said he still enjoys visiting the Shahe Market.

"The fruits and vegetables here may not be as well presented and packaged as those in the supermarkets, and some may even be covered in soil, but they are always fresh and more affordable," he said, adding that he also enjoys talking to the vendors and learning about the efforts they put into growing their produce. "The market has brought people closer."

Since last year, more young people have started visiting the Shahe Market, which was traditionally the favorite haunt of the older generations, according to Guo. "They (young people) are very noticeable. You can tell by their colorful coats and hairdos."

People enjoy noodles at the Shahe Market in Changping on Jan 7. WEI XIAOHAO/CHINA DAILY

Chen Xiaoyi, 26, who works for an IT company in Beijing, said she loves the market's lively vibe. More importantly, shopping here is affordable and helps her save up money for the future, she said.

Chen first visited the market last May after she saw a post about it on social media. Now, visiting the market almost every weekend has become a habit, she said.

"It's like a mini break from my stressful work life. Some people go hiking in the mountains during the weekend, I hike to the market," she said, as she waited at a stall to buy some freshly squeezed sugar cane juice, which she plans to use later to make sugar cane Americano.

The young techie said the best-part about visiting the market is that she can wear casual and comfortable clothes, and no makeup at all. "I know for sure that no one will judge me here. I quite like the crowd of shoppers at the market, even though I hate crowds in general because I have to squeeze into packed subway trains to go to work every morning," she said.

Shopping at the Shahe Market has helped her cut down her monthly spending on groceries by more than 1,000 yuan ($140), because most products are cheaper than those available at central Beijing's supermarkets, Chen said.

"For example, the price of strawberries, which I love, is nearly half here compared with the price of strawberries at the supermarket near my apartment. In other words, this market is good for the body, the soul and the wallet," said the techie, who has already introduced her friends and colleagues to the Shahe Market.

Chen, who has also been sharing her experiences on social media, has come across many like-minded young people who see visiting open-air markets as fun. "Together, we have located more such markets in the suburbs of Beijing, and I am planning to visit them one by one."

A visitor gets a taste of the market. WEI XIAOHAO/CHINA DAILY

Li Yang, an undergraduate student at Beihang University, said the Shahe Market is popular among university students as well."Getting up early on a winter morning to attend classes is so hard, but getting up early to go to the market for a hearty breakfast is fairly easy," he said.

After breakfast, Li and his classmates often throw a challenge to see how many things they can buy at the market for 100 yuan.

"I once struck a great bargain — I bought three long-sleeve tops and two pairs of sweatpants for 100 yuan. My friends said the clothes look just as chic as those sold by top international brands. When they visited the market the following week, the vendor was no longer there. I believe that's why this market is so much fun," the 21-year-old said.

Open-air markets have mushroomed around the city over the past year after the Beijing municipal government decided to support the development of street vending economy, said Liu Hong, a regular vendor at such markets.

The 42-year-old, who sells baked buns with shredded braised pork, has been doing brisk business in three to four open-air markets each week in Beijing's Changping and Shunyi districts. "As different markets are held on different days, I can find one to sell my buns each day of the week if I want to."

Liu, who is from Hebei province, had a small restaurant in Beijing where he sold his baked buns, noodles and soup. Business took a hit during the COVID-19 pandemic and he couldn't pay the rent for the restaurant space. He had no choice but to shut it down.

People shop for farm produce at an open-air market in Nanqijia village on Jan 11. WEI XIAOHAO/CHINA DAILY

At an open-air market in Changping's Nanqijia village, Liu needs to pay only 30 yuan a day to rent a stall, so there is much less pressure on him to run his business.

"Also, I really enjoy the lively atmosphere at these markets. You can tell that the ambience is lifting people's moods as they walk around, or browse products. People are much nicer to each other," Liu said, taking a bun out of the oven for a customer, who in turn offered him one of the oranges she had just bought from another vendor.

"Maybe I will open a restaurant again someday after I am able to save up enough money, but I will definitely miss my time at these markets, which have cast a magical spell," he added.

A little girl holds a cabbage her parents bought at the market in Nanqijia. WEI XIAOHAO/CHINA DAILY
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