The configuration of dual brand principals is not common among the array of independent designer brands in China.
However, Ffixxed Studios and RE: by MAISON SANS TITRE have successfully struck a harmonious balance by embracing the diverse contrasts between their two partners.
To celebrate unofficial Valentine's Day on May 20 (the number 520 sounds similar to "I love you" in Chinese), these two brands, which both have a decadelong history, have joined forces with renowned luxury department store Lane Crawford to unveil exclusive collections.
Fiona Lau, who studied fashion design at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, and Kain Picken, who studied fine arts at Victorian College of the Arts, are the founders of Ffixxed Studios. They are both fashion designers and artists.
Lau is generally more involved with the production, while Picken handles media relations and other projects.
Lau and Picken started working together while living in Berlin. At that time, Picken was focused on his art projects, while Lau was working for a fashion brand called Bless. They were both intrigued by each other's work and began collaborating on a side project for an exhibition to explore mutual interests in fashion and art together. And when they relocated to China, they founded the menswear and womenswear brand Ffixxed together in 2012.
"I believe that both of us are indispensable to the brand, as it has grown through our ongoing dialogue," says Lau.
Picken says: "While we have also many differences, even opposing views and perspectives, we still share some core values about creativity which allows us to explore different ideas and bring them together in a cohesive way. We also have very different personalities but this difference helps to create a balance between us."
Due to Picken's background in art, with a specialization in sculpture, and Lau's experience interning at various fashion brands, their creations embody both an artistic sensibility and a practical, comfortable appeal.
Their brand won first place at the International Woolmark Awards Asia with a blanket-inspired women's garment in 2013.
RE: by MAISON SANS TITRE on the other hand, was first established by Xu Jiazheng in 2015 under the name of MAISON SANS TITRE.
One year after the establishment of MAISON SANS TITRE, Jumbo Tsui walked into its flagship store and was immediately drawn to the ethereal aesthetic of Eastern fashion, which was prevalent at the time, combined with the sleek tailoring that lies at the core of Western fashion.
Encountering such pieces excited Tsui, a person undertaking multiple roles such as fashion photographer, installation artist and director, who just came back to China after living in Paris for four years and spent more than a year in Tokyo.
Through a mutual acquaintance, he got to know Xu and discovered shared experiences and interests, then started working as the creative director for the brand in 2016.
"As the creative director and a visual enthusiast, my main responsibility is to 'look for stories'," Tsui says.
He regularly shows Xu things that he finds interesting — details of fascinating ethnic costumes, literary cues he has come across recently, or captivating snippets from films.
"My inspiration is allowed to crawl from rich visual stills or nimble short films, gradually manifesting into wearable works of art," says Tsui.
Brand characteristics
Ffixxed Studios and RE: by MAISON SANS TITRE both have strong characteristics and insistence.
The former is dedicated to creating clothing and objects that respond, inspire and adapt to the changing circumstances of contemporary life. The collection intends to present a reflection on the composition of everyday life, thus exploring the concept of work and life in contemporary culture.
The brand focuses on mobility and openness in concept, material and function. Its clothing uses natural fibers, custom-designed fabrics and personalized production processes to respond to a range of issues in sustainable workflows.
The two founders claim that it is always a challenge to keep the brand sustainable. They are always looking for new ways to source more sustainable materials or develop processes to rework existing materials. But to innovate and do things differently are deeply a fun task for them.
"I think nowadays it's essential for any brand to take a more responsible approach to sustainable production and sourcing, not only to meet consumer demands but just out of a moral obligation. In this way keeping the brand sustainable is not about making profit or loss so much as an ethical responsibility," says Picken.
While Ffixxed Studios is widely recognized for its commitment to sustainable production and its love and concern for nature, RE: by MAISON SANS TITRE is renowned for its poetic structures and minimalist styles.
Majoring in creative pattern making, Xu graduated from the Institute of French haute couture in 2010. Xu believes that in this field, designers primarily focus on exploring new garment structures and silhouettes while building upon traditional tailoring techniques. "From my perspective, pattern making is the fundamental aspect of the garment design process and forms the essence of a piece of clothing. To create a successful garment, I believe that solid pattern-making techniques are essential; without them, the work cannot be considered truly accomplished. For me, laying a solid foundation is the essence of completing a project," he says.
The 520 Special Collection
For the 520 Special Collection for Lane Crawford, both brands present captivating styles and explore the enchanting possibilities of "love".
RE: by MAISON SANS TITRE draws inspiration from the symbolic red thread representing the concept of "fated connections", which is rooted in the tale documented in Li Fuyan's legendary novel Xu Xuan Guai Lu from the Tang Dynasty (618-907).
"The thread has played a significant role in establishing connections between individuals and between humans and nature across different cultures and eras," Xu says.
The special collection seamlessly integrates knot details into garment structures, featuring naturally draped contrasting color ribbons. While staying true to the brand's signature minimalistic design approach, the collection adds a touch of relaxed festivity, crafting gentle and sophisticated ensembles for the tenderhearted and refined gentlemen with soft and subdued hues.
For Ffixxed Studios' first-ever Valentine-related special collection, the two founders wanted to make something cute and cool to wear without being too direct or cheesy.
So they showcase distressed heart-shaped motifs which appear on denim patched jackets and jeans, as well as a T-shirt and hoodies.
Seville Chow, senior vice-president of fashion of Lane Crawford, says that these two brands are the most suitable ones to interpret the theme well but at the same time with a commercial touch.
"RE: by MAISON SANS TITRE uses a more subtle way with heart shape lapel and ribbon on the chest; the palette is also very sweet and soft due to its pastel hues; whereas Ffixxed Studios is more direct and playful by using a lot of patchwork and applique to show love in a more funky way," he says.