In this saturated age of homogenous everything, The Fife Arms in Braemar, Scotland is an aesthetic, adventurous one-of-a-kind.
Surprises abound – so many and so dense – when stepping foot into the newly renovated 19th-century Victorian coaching inn The Fife Arms in the scenic village of Braemar, Scotland, it's nearly impossible to know where to look first. The entrance to the hotel sets the bar sky-high. What looks like a copy of a Pablo Picasso piece on the right wall is, in fact, an original Mousquetaire Assis (1967) and would likely fetch in excess of $20 million at auction. On a wall opposite hangs an innocuous-looking pencil and watercolour of a stag's head in a frame – and yes, it's an original by an enthusiastic artistic amateur more commonly known as Queen Victoria.
As your eyes ascend the staircase in this semi-baronial hall meets hunting-lodge atmosphere, a neon orb composed of bagpipes and glass antlers cascades from the ceiling over the banisters; Red Deer Chandelier (mighty Instagrammable it is, too) is a commissioned piece by Los Angeles-based artist Richard Jackson. You could explore nothing else at The Fife Arms but this space, safe in the knowledge that few hotels in the world, if any, could induce such heady and immediate aesthetic delirium.
All the art is little wonder given the provenance of its high-key owners: Manuela and Iwan Wirth, co-presidents of Zurich-based art gallery Hauser & Wirth. Together, they've combined art with culture, food, hospitality and environmental sustainability across a series of projects, including the Roth Bar & Grill and the Durslade Farmhouse at Hauser & Wirth Somerset; The Bull Inn in Bruton; the Manuela restaurant at Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; and now The Fife Arms. Braemar itself comes with much storytelling, set as it is a two-hour drive from Aberdeen and Dundee in the wild, picturesque Cairngorms National Park and just a cock's stride from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth's holiday home at Balmoral.
Beyond the royal neighbours, the Wirths see the property as the preserve of "slow travel". The Fife Arms' interiors have been created by Russell Sage Studio (of The Goring and The Savoy fame) and throughout, there's a Scottish narrative. The property is a true celebration of local craftsmanship, from the walls adorned with house tartan and tweed by Araminta Campbell to the gardens, sculpted by celebrated garden designer Jinny Blom.
There are 46 individually designed bedrooms, from the Royal and Victorian suites to the Nature and Poetry rooms. Outside the property, the Wirths encourage guests of all abilities and interests to wander off into the Scottish Highlands to hunt, stalk, bird, shoot, mountain bike and fish on the neighbouring Invercauld Estate, while in winter months the nearby Glenshee provides the best skiing in Scotland. Otherwise, visitors can attend local musical events at St Margaret's Church, tour the castle, explore the coastline, learn the history behind Scottish whisky, visit sculpture exhibitions in the local villages and learn new artisanal skills via artists-in-residence on the property. For fashionistas, there's even a special Fashion Weekend with exclusive talks during the month of November. Talk about the agony of choice…