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An ideal summer retreat
2024-09-17
Entertainers enthuse guests at a hotel on Guanglu Island of Changhai county in Dalian, Liaoning province, in July 2023. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Changhai county in Dalian is drawing tourists to its archipelago-style resort where one can watch dolphins and birds, dig clams or explore the sea in a semi-submersible.

Every person has his or her space where they find peace of body and mind. For Liu Fuyong, better known as Daliu, a mountaineer with 25 years of experience, this peaceful sanctuary lies in Changhai county of Dalian, Liaoning province.

After summiting Yuzhu Peak on the eastern ridge of Kunlun Mountains, rising 6,178 meters above sea level in Qinghai province, for the 23rd time, he returned home to downtown Dalian in August. But in less than a week he was on his way to Changhai. "Heading out to the sea for a big catch, relishing the most delicious seafood in all of China, or simply gazing at the sea during sunset — all these moments are beautiful," said Daliu, 64.

Daliu finds tranquillity in snowcapped mountains and the northeastern island county. "When visiting Changhai, a significant fishing base in China, one must savor the local seafood," said Daliu. "It boasts the best marine ranch in China. Its low water temperatures, rapid water flow and clean water quality ensure quality seafood."

Tourists departing Changhai county arrive at a port in Dalian's Jinpu New Area on Aug 23. [Photo by Liu Debin/For China Daily]

National tourist resort

Changhai is the only island county in Northeast China, and also the only bordering island county. Situated in the northern Yellow Sea off the eastern side of the Liaodong Peninsula, it consists of 195 islands (about 20 inhabited) and 359 kilometers of coastline.

Banking on its picturesque setting and ecological features, the county has introduced island-themed tourism packages that are immensely popular with tourists. These include activities such as clam digging, fishing and seafood savoring.

In June, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism announced a new batch of national tourist resorts, among them the Changshan Archipelago Tourist Resort in Dalian. The country's first archipelago-style national tourist resort has transformed Changhai, where it is located, from a relatively lesser-known hidden gem into a much-loved tourist destination, earning the title of "ideal summer retreat".

Data released by the local authorities showed that during the summer tourist season, from June to August, the county attracted 800,000 visitors who came to enjoy the charm of the islands and take in the coastal fishing village culture, with the highest single-day visitor count reaching 14,320.

The resort boasts 82 hotels and 88 tourist homestays and offers a variety of themed activities at the Xiaoshuikou Forest Park, Guanglu Laotieshan Forest Park and the "bird watching and dolphin appreciation" facility on the sea.

The county has been hosting a series of island-themed festivals such as a fishing village culture festival, Matsu cultural tourism festival and fishing festival, apart from organizing premium sports events such as a master fishing competition, marathons and cycling races.

Changhai enjoys unique ecological advantages and abundant marine resources, said Liu Baoqing, Party secretary of the county. "We are committed to building a comprehensive and all-encompassing archipelago tourist destination with distinctive marine cultural characteristics and first-class tourism and leisure facilities," he said.

The 3.45-km Changshan Bridge, which started operating in 2014, connects the Dachangshan and Xiaochangshan islands in Changhai county. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Understated vacation paradise

This summer, in an effort to showcase the beauty of Changhai and the national tourist resort to more online audiences, 44-year-old documentary maker Lu Yao and her 9-year-old son Cao Enshuo embarked on a journey to the county, staying on approximately 10 islands over a period of two months.

"The world is vast, not confined to textbooks and classrooms. We have such beautiful places like this in Dalian, yet our knowledge about them is limited. So, I decided to take my son to the islands, believing it would broaden his horizon," said Lu.

They made some wonderful memories there.

For instance, she said, on a small island in Guanglu Island Town, when the tide recedes, a path opens up through the sea, leading to a mountain on the opposite side, like a scene from a science fiction movie.

They also met 50-year-old Liang Zeye, who can "summon" dolphins. He just blows a whistle and the dolphins begin gathering around his yacht. It didn't happen overnight. He has cultivated a mutual understanding with the dolphins over the years, paying them attention and protecting them. Every year, over 1,000 dolphins migrate to and from Changhai, arriving in April and leaving for the south by November.

The mother and son duo also met a group of over 10 paddleboarding enthusiasts who paddle from one island to another for leisure.

The breathtaking scenery was a good reason for Cao to put his drone photography skills to good use. "Nature is the best teacher," said Lu. "After a few attempts, he realized his skills needed improvement, sparking greater interest."

Each island they visited had its own unique character. While Dachangshan and Xiaochangshan islands are buzzing with life, most other islands have a slow pace of life in the absence of industry and taxi services.

Tourists savor wine at a hotel on Guanglu Island in July 2023. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Dachangshan Island serves as the administrative center of Changshan archipelago. It is the most accessible central island of the archipelago. Along with two village-level islands, Haxian Island and Saili Island, it constitutes the Dachangshan Island Town.

"I had visited Haxian Island before, but could only take a cursory glance that time. Because of my extended stay this time, I felt its healing powers. Watching the sunrise and sunset, as well as the ebb and flow of the tides, is like being on a fairy island," Lu said.

Other guests at the homestay included a young couple from Anshan, Liaoning province, whose greatest joy was clam digging. Keeping an eye on the tide's schedule, they would surface the moment the tides receded to go looking for nature's bounty on the shore.

"On the evening before they left, they had gathered nearly 15 kilograms of conchs. If they are able to sell it at the market price of 80 yuan ($11.23) per kilogram, that would have covered the entire cost of their three-day island trip," said Lu.

The 3.45-km Changshan Bridge, operational since 2014, connects the Changhai's two biggest islands, Dachangshan and Xiaochangshan, benefiting 70 percent of the county's population.

Xiaochangshan Island features Xiaoshuikou Forest Park, which is built along the coastline with high vegetation coverage. Guanglu Island houses the Xiaozhushan cultural site, a typical shell mound of the Neolithic Age in northern China. It dates back 7,000 years and is one of the earliest primitive cultural sites found in the Dalian area.

Lu's group received permission to visit the tiny 9-hectare island of Fantuozi for filming. It was sheer joy for Cao, the elementary school student, to see and understand why the island is famous as the "paradise of 10,000 birds".

"Fantuozi is the largest breeding ground for the Chinese egret, a nationally protected bird species. From April to September each year, dedicated personnel are stationed to protect the area, keeping people at bay," Lu explained.

On Zhangzi Island, visitors venture out on boats, or on semi-submersible submarines, for fishing or underwater seafood harvesting. Depending on the season, it is possible to spot whales and seals in the waters off Changhai county.

"After this exploration, the beautiful scenery and cultural romance of Changhai have left an indelible mark on my son's mind," Lu said. "As for myself, the healing currents have made me realize the kind of life I aspire to have," she said.

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