Fashion brands often talk about melding a fusion of East and West without ever delivering a practical, identifiable gain-line in the cultural crossover. But a relatively new kid on the block, London- and Shanghai-based womenswear label Samuel Gui Yang, helmed by Shenzhen-born Samuel Yang and Stockholm-born Erik Litzén, is a delightful exception to that rule. The two designers mix and merge Chinese and Western codes, as well as historic and contemporary references, in creating a language that both fits and challenges today's fast-changing fashion dynamic.

With training at Acne and Jonathan Anderson behind them, the two designers meticulously focus on construction and fabrication to create pragmatic wardrobes imbued with strong character and a sense of mystery. Such heft caught the eye of the judges for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers 2020, for which the pair were shortlisted. (The final was cancelled due to the pandemic.)

"We want to create a fashion brand in which the union of two different cultures stands at the core," say Yang and Litzén. "We want to achieve true newness. And, being part of a wave of new Chinese designers, we have taken on the challenge of creating for a new generation of Chinese consumers." It's not an overly touristic or coffee-table version of China, either. "We aim to offer a vision whereby Chinese history and culture stand for more than just exotic notions or traditional costumes, and we are excited to present our work to a wider audience."

Samuel Gui Yang's Instagram account (@samuelguiyang) attracts a high-wattage range of fellow influencers, including ART021 founder Kelly Ying, contemporary artist Cao Fei, and designers Anais Mak, Ms Min and Arto Wong. The brand regularly posts its own sense of aesthetic taste, too. To wit, it just posted stills from three films by Taiwanese director Tsai Ming-liang, all showing the actress Yang Kuei-mei; then there are shots from a trio of films Maggie Cheung starred in: Farewell China, As Tears Go By and Irma Vep.

For those who want to get up close and personal with the aesthetic, shop Samuel Gui Yang at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and Shanghai, Labelhood and SKP Select in Beijing, and Browns in London. "We are also passionate about showing that 'made in China' can be synonymous with creativity, high quality, artistry and sustainability," conclude the designers. This label is definitely one to watch.